Wednesday, 8 July 2009

Golite Shangri La 3 first wee shufty

After thinking about getting up some hills for overnight adventures with Louise I realised I'm going to need a shelter with a bit more space but one that will still keep the weight down. I'm not prepared to carry my old Vango Tempest anymore. It's a great tent for those on a budget. It takes a real pasting in the wind and is light enough if split between two but, and it's a big but, it lacks the space to be comfortable for two. If I'm going to convince Louise that being self sufficient in the mountains for a few days is fun then we need not to be tripping over stoves in the porch and having to leave rucksacks outside etc. So, after much thought I settled on the Shangri La 3 from Golite. My thinking was that it's a shelter that is big enough, is a true four season tent i.e. snow loading isn't a concern and is also still light enough to carry solo.

It arrived the other day and my first impressions are good. I took it down to my local park (Calderglen) to pitch it for the first time. I got the pitch you see in the photies after my second attempt, the first time the pegs were a bit too far apart. I reckon a little bit of practise and maybe a wee mark or two on my trekking poles or a bit of string the right length would help here.

I used the bottom two sections of my trekking poles connected with the handle section of an old Alpkit pole with the handle sawn off to pitch it, instead of using the supplied pole which is fairly heavy. The supplied pole is quite a bit more substantial though and I may still use it in winter storms. (I picked this tip up from Parky on the OM forum's BTW)

Inside, the space is absolutely cavernous. You could easily get two bodies in there with rucksacks, boots, a lit stove and still have room to move. Ventilation seems good with two decent vents at the top and the ability to vary the height of the pitch. I'm told condensation isn't much of a problem anyway as it simply runs down the steep walls to the ground. I'm happy without a floor if I'm using a bivy and that's how it'll be until I can sort something out about a midge proof inner for two. The standard one is very heavy for what it is and is also too big in my opinion so I didn't get one. I may even have a bash at making one that suits our requirements...maybe :o)

Once up, the tent feels very stable. There are more tie-outs in the centre of each panel that can be used as well to properly nail it down in a blow. I think a couple of 4 or 5 metre extra guy's attached to the hang loop on the top of the tent could make it almost bombproof. I'll need to inspect the stitching on the hang loop before I decide whether I'm confident in doing that though.

My only complaint so far is with the shitty 'Y' pegs supplied. They look good at first glance but are not very kind to the hands and with no cord loop to help remove them they can be a real pain...


I could easily fix this with a file, a drill, a bit of emery paper and some effort but I simply can't be arsed. I’ll replace them with some of the excellent blue pegs from cleats. Hopefully I'll get up a mountain with it this weekend for a proper test. So far it's looking like a winner!


  1. Lots of space there. Have you considerd the half size floor from

  2. I've been thinking about getting one of those as well. Look forward to hearing the results of your proper test.

  3. Martin, it really is massive in there. I looked at the half hex floor and thought it was a nice idea but I reckon I could get lighter and/or something with bathtub side would be a better idea. A midge proof nest with that sort of footprint would be ideal...I can see me having to make it myself though.

    Gordy, I cannae wait to get it up to the hills. Going by my immpressions just now, I wish I'd got one years ago.

  4. re removing the pegs from the ground. A little tip I use all the time. Use the long edge of one peg (usually a spare) and fit it underneath the "barb" of the peg in the ground and using both hands, horizontally pull the spare peg upwards and the grounded peg comes out easy as pie

    This works especially well with Y-Pegs


  5. That's a good tip BPB, I'll remember that.

    I'm just back in the door from a very, very wet and windy wildcamp in the Arrochar Alps with the Shangri La 3. Mixed results but it's stuff that can be fixed, more later.

  6. Check this out:

    A realy neat trick for setting up a hex mid!

  7. Ooooh, that's exactly what I'm after! Good shout Dave ;o)

    I was doing something similar with a peg and trying to measure with my trekking pole, this looks better. I'm sure I can manage to squeeze an extra bit of string into my pack.

  8. Hi, we have bought a piece of fine netting and attached it to the tent, we use the floor and fold in the netting underneath and avoid the bugs that way! We added approx. 1 foot of netting along the whole bottom edge. / Birgitta - Sweden

  9. That sounds a nice simple way of doing it Birgitta. I'm thinking along similar lines but with a floor that's only a half or two thirds the area inside. I like a porch area for cooking and muddy gear like boots.

  10. Very keen to read about your fix for the Nest with the SL. From the pics the distance from the base of the pole to the pegs is not equal in all case as for the Hex. You get a similar pitching/pegging guide with the tentipi (heavier and more expensive). The tentipi 'comfort' floors can be opened up to create a boots/wet entry patch.

  11. I'm still working on a fix for the nest and it's looking increasingly likely I'm gonna have to learn how drive a sewing machine.

    If using a longer pole you can offset it from the centre of the tent to give more room on one side but the tents footprint is symetrical. The panel length and distance between the pegs is the same on all sides. (on the SL3 anyway)


Blog Archive